You'll have to forgive me if I'm a little out of sequence; I think my last entry was for January 8th, so I'll start on January 9th. This was page 08-03, and the only problems we had on this page was locating the HS-1223 Drill Guide, which we eventually found.
JANUARY 10, we started on page 8-04, the horizontal stabilizer. Just make sure you've got the right side up. Be carejul on page 9-02 and lay out your spars in the right orientation, and count your rivet hose carefully, and use the correct rivets. We had to open up some of the holes with a #40 bit before we could countersink them. Page 9-03, another page requiring reading and re-reading. It helped me to use a yellow highlighter at the beginning of each direction. (had my LD students do that a lot in high school.)
JANUARY 14, We started on page 9-04. While one guy was layng up the work, another person did the counter-sinking. Be careful on this page in regards to your hole selection for the nutplates. Page 9-05 required a lot of clecoing, drilling, unclecoing, deburring and refastening. I notice that we did page 9-06 on January 13.In figure 3, I fluted some of the ribs, especially the longer ones. Back to January 14, on page 9-07, count your eyelets carefully and pay attention to the un-notched edges on the drill guide. I drilled one too many holes when I drilled right through a piece of masking tape that was supposed to mark the hole I wasn't supposed to drill... Page 9-08, we went through step 3 and quit for the day.
JANUARY 15 we picked up on step 4 on page 9-08. Make sure you leave the bottom row of rivets open on step 5. Page 9-09 went pretty quick, just had to remember to remove some parts to deburr.
JANUARY 16 we started on page 9-10; note that the lead weights are tapered and flat on one side, so they can be put together, face-to-face. Note that the counterbalance are final assembly will be completed during section 11. Most of the work on page 10-02 was stripping the plastic and cleaning up the edges. We went to Harbor Freight and bought a bunch of those rectangular sanding sponges and used them; they really worked well. Step 3 called out for fluting the edges, but it was really tough to do, so we didn't think we needed to do it. We completed page 10-02.
JANUARY 17, we started page 10-03, and if there was ever a page that needed a hydralic squeezer, this was it. My thumb is still store from using the hand squeezer on this page. We did each type of rivet (like all the AN426AD3-4's) at one time, and marked their location on the F1211 assembly. DON'T rivet the F1211C-R@L onto the assembly!
JANUARY 21, page 10-05, we started assembly of the stabilator. We used the superglue on the washers, after we put a light coat of oil on the bolt, in case some glue got on the bolt. We pulled off our plywood table top and suspended the F1282 L&R between our two sawhorses and started laying up the tailcone (YEA!). Make sure you've got smoothe edges, otherwise they'll show up when you're all assembled. It took 2 people to align the notches with the skins, because we're both pretty clumsy when it comes to that stuff. Make sure you've got the flanges on the 1208 frames going in the correct direction. Page 10-07, A LOT OF RIVETING!!. page 10-08, we did the wiring and tying up of plastic tubing. We couldn't get the pin out of the static port, so we used a Dremel to saw off the end, then it came out easily.
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